Day 3: In Aurangabad...

Well, we reached at about 2 AM in the morning – the bracket of time when life sustains only around the railway station usually. While Hyderabad blended cultures seamlessly, this city had a distinct ‘northy’ feel – not in sight yet – as it was pitch dark then. The feel, was because my mind had programmed itself to the fact that we were in Maharashtra – a state that we often hear in the news (Vidarbha’s suicides, Mumbai’s terror attacks, Pune’s rave parties....etc) but never felt for the trouble, being conveniently distant. As a spectator, things that get injected into our intellect creates ideas that could be alarming. But once you are in a place, those pre-conceived notions are laid off. I guess... I began untying those knots as we walked over to our hotel, 10 mins from the station.

Reached hotel - rooms allotted – entered room – plunged onto bed. Very insensitive to disturbances while sleeping – woke up 3 hours later – knowing that the stationary bed is something that I’ll miss in the next 20 days. Pohe for breakfast – mildly flavoured rice flakes that look small but are quite filling. Surprise, surprise – a cake of a building right next door! The Goldie Cinema – with blue-berry icing. Well, what can I say – gimmicks that people are made to do, calling it consumer-driven architecture. It does turn heads, and pockets sometimes...

GOLDIE CINEMA WITH BLUE BERRY ICING

As much as it’s dipped in history, Aurangabad has emerged as one of the fastest growing cities in India, owing to its spirit of entrepreneurship, housing a large no. of industrial estates. The main roads were dotted with a lot a horn ok please lorries carrying huge consignments of textiles, construction materials and other engineering goods that the place is known for. We were heading towards the Ajanta Caves – about 100 km from the city. Almost 30 mins into the journey, all that city noise was gone – just parched landscapes. Brown ploughed land, dry trees, barbed fences and scarecrows.

The route was devoid of any interest in a sense – it felt like a brown rug pulled across the window. I was getting tired of it when the bus came to a screeching halt. Flat tyre....! And we were in the middle of nowhere...Interestingly, stranded in that place for at least an hour – the place felt better all of a sudden. Things looked clearer – seemed like there was some pattern in the way the trees were placed on the neatly combed soil. It is interesting how perceptions change based on situations – and when you look closely there’s always something to appreciate & take back.

A bit of enthusiasm and resistance to the heat – the tyre was fixed and we were back on track...The road later passed thro’ hills & valleys alternately – pleasant with picturesque views of the sedimented canyon. At Ajanta, all support facilities are regulated to the periphery of the heritage site – interestingly it is one of the reasons that the place is well-maintained yet less preferred as a tourist destination. The approach was quite tiresome (senior citizens & the physically challenged would find it extremely uncomfortable – lack of water facilities & the steep rise in particular) but finally when the view of cave complex opens up – it truly is a sight to behold. It felt like this secret, mystical kingdom placed in the wilderness – untouched by the world and humbled by its own magnanimity.

THE APPROACH VIEW TOWARDS THE HORSE-SHOE

Completely cut off from the rest of the world – I guess generations together could live there in exile and no one would know. It served the purpose beautifully till a bunch of Englishmen accidently stepped on it. The Buddhist monks spent their lives in making the place – the chaityas, viharas & stupas within 30 odd caves. Most of the caves are dimly lit to reduce damage by light. I didn’t see much or analyse the paintings but being in that darkness was quite overwhelming. Why doesn’t the roof fall without any support? How is the floor so smooth? Why are the rooms so tiny? How did they do it? - were questions that we took back. Of course, the technical know-how is important but I guess it teaches one - the undying belief in the human spirit; one that makes renouncing the world & scraping thro’ mountains possible. Without sophisticated tools, structural drawings, high-end survey equipment and skilled labour – if that was possible; it is only a point to ponder over, than years of rigorous research.

THE CAVES ALONG THE HORSE-SHOE CANYON

Ellora caves – was scheduled for the next day – pretty much similar – this time there were Hindu, Buddhist & Jain faiths superimposed on the same site. It was much easier to access for one thing, one could even opt for cabs to see the caves at the farther end – but I felt that I didn’t do justice to the place as we were literally running from one cave to another. We had to reach Jalgaon to catch the next train; that was about 200 km away.

The famous Kailasanatha Temple is situated there and is the highlight apart from the sculptural quality of a dozen shiv-lings. I’ve not seen anything like the temple ever before in my life - meaning to say that it is sheer genius. Subtractive sculpting intricate forms into rock from above and then deeper sideward into the mountain – creating a structurally & aesthetically sound monument is not a joke. 3 storeys of access, chamber within chamber, a life size elephant & a highly intricate dhwajastamba – all this & much more carved into a humongous boulder in the mountain. The quality of that space – devoid of any idol, of any faith would be more spiritually overpowering than one with it. I guess...the notion that godly powers rest in an idol within the temple is redundant. The passage thro’ a space like that in itself is ‘godly’ – in a sense that it alleviates one of the memories of worldly troubles. And in my reasoning – that’s why we go to temples (churches/mosques wherever...)

GNAWING INTO STONE & FRAMING THE SKY - KAILASANATHA TEMPLE

Reaching Jalgaon was on the same route to Ajanta. So it was the treaded path once again – reached the Railway station dot on time. We couldn’t do Ellora the day earlier because the place remains closed on Mondays. Badly organised in Aurangabad - we lost a lot of time in travelling and getting people together, that we didn’t see the Bibi ka Maqbura & the Daulatabad fort...Other than that, I guess its.... Jai Maharashtra!